The Next Generation of Shaped Watches

It's become increasingly apparent that we're at a tipping point when it comes to watch design. After decades of sports watch supremacy, it's clear that watch lovers are remembering that other styles of timepieces exist. In particular, we're seeing a level of excitement for quirky shapes and unusual dress watches that would have been unthinkable a few years ago.

Of course, it's important to note that your favourite round-cased, integrated bracelet sporty staples aren't going anywhere. Our love for Submariners and Speedmasters isn't set to change any time soon. What's new though is the broader watch-loving community being ready to move beyond the circle, into some surprising shapes.

From hype-y new releases like the Berneron Mirage and the Toledano & Chan B/1 through to legacy brands with a new lease on life like Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta returning to mainstream attention under the patronage of LVMH.

For anyone following watches, it should come as no real surprise that one brand has historically led the charge of unconventional shapes — Cartier. Cartier is an unashamedly design-led brand that has always placed a strong focus on the case shape. This is not new. Cartier has always made square, round and rectangular watches; it's kind of what they do. What is new is just how much mainstream attention certain Cartier pieces have been getting, in particular — the Crash.

Thanks to a slew of high-profile wearers and stratospheric secondary market prices, Cartier's once-obscure Crash is now a mainstream status symbol, and one consequence is that people are suddenly paying attention to shaped watches like never before. On the secondary market, there's been increased interest in Gilbert Albert's work, especially his designs for Patek Philippe. We're also seeing an increased appetite for early Daniel Roth and Roger Dubuis: all classical timepieces that offer a shapely alternative to the round case.

When it comes to the new kids on the block, there's plenty of activity. Anoma draws plenty of inspiration from mid-century design (including Gilbert Albert) and debuted an accessible, softly shaped triangular case -- something very rarely seen. It's a bold debut move for a new brand, but it seems to have paid off. Berneron's Crash-influenced Mirage is also exceptional, not least for the care he's taken to ensure that the asymmetry continues through to the movement. Toledano & Chan took inspiration from the Rolex Midas for their brutalist debut, which sold out in a matter of minutes.

But it isn't just small upstarts jumping on the bandwagon. Audemars Piguet's [Re]Master02 is an expectation-defying slab of gold, and the revived Daniel Roth wowed everyone away with the 'Ellipsocurvex' case shape, and we suspect that in 2025, the floodgates will truly open.

Of course watchmaking is far from a zero sum game — just because there's a burgeoning interest in dressier, unusually-shaped cases, it doesn't mean that dive watches and integrated bracelets are going away. But it is good to see more diveristy in watch design.